November 2019 - Anita Rosenberg

November 18, 2019November 12, 2019

Shopping for Nirvana in London

Quick Trip to London 2019

My birthday bucket-list trip to Ireland and Scotland wrapped up in London, where Will and I met up with Max (his oldest brother and my nephew.) Max was doing a summer internship in London and as we found out over those days visiting, he was loving it.

Now, I have been to London many times before and each visit was mostly about catching up with close friends who live there. I have stayed all over the city, and each location offers its own unique viewpoint of the city. This time, I chose the Andaz Hotel near Bricklane, Shoreditch, and Spitafields.

Bricklane is the area with the best Indian restaurants. This is where I would go for curry and nan bread. This time I was amazed at all the graffiti murals. Some of the best street artists got their fame up on those walls.

Brick Lane was originally called Whitechapel Lane. Thought to be renamed because local earth was used by brick and tile manufacturers who set up shop in the street in the 15^th century. By the 17^th century, the street had also become a popular location for breweries.

Within walking distance to another favorite area of mine was Shoreditch, an arty and hip neighborhood of Hoxton. This is where the ultra trendy new Box Car is located. I had no clue what it was, but there was a line to get in so I grabbed the nephews and we lined up too. It’s a pop-up space built from shipping containers. Ground level has shops and upstairs are kiosk-type food stalls, loud pulsating music feeling more like an exterior nightclub than a food court.

nephews meeting new people at Box Car and my dinner

Spitafields is another district in the East End of London with three historic markets; Old Spitafields Market, Bricklane Market, and Petticoat Lane Market. They sure fixed up Spitafields Market since my first visit in the 1970s. Known for its antiques, I took some of my favorite photos of vintage decor and bought a fuzzy hippie sweater I still wear when LA gets cold. Now the market sells everything from indie designer clothes to designer coffee. Also located nearby is where the famous and grisly Jack the Ripper murders took place in 1888.

For my birthday afternoon with the nephews I got to pick the activities. We took a boat cruise along the London canals, which ended up not being as exciting as I thought. Nevertheless, it was a unique point-of-view of the city. We started in Little Venice and floated down to the crazy crowded tourist-infused area of Camden. Our boat driver got the entire cruise boat to sing happy birthday and that made my day!

Camden after the river cruise (left and right photos) – Thames River (middle photo)

Next stop was Notting Hill which always makes me feel like I am in a Hugh Grant movie. Portobello Road is the commercial and more touristy street lined with antique shops. We were there on a Saturday so the street was blocked off for vendors. It was crazy crowded and not as much fun as I remembered.

When our Uber dropped us off on Westbourne Grove, near Portobello Road I had never been to this area and was excited to window shop at the posh stores. This is where all the cute and expensive real estate is located. What a sweet neighborhood. If I wasn’t with two teenage boys I would have shopped ’til I dropped and tried on everything!

My visits to London are always about visiting my dear friends. I met Shermay in Monaco and now she lives in England so we planned to meet in Chinatown. “Our thing” is dim sum and catching up no matter where we are in the world. Plus, she always orders the best dumplings.

And then I met one of my BFF’s, Pete, for High Tea at Browns. It is a hoity-toity spot, but there is something so special about the ceremony of tea when in London. It’s almost a religion. The little cakes and sandwiches with crusts cut off are the best.

Wrapping up the Ireland/Scotland trip with a few days in London with my nephews was special. I really hadn’t noticed before the intriguing and complex juxtaposition of modern hi-rise architecture with centuries old buildings. Probably because I never stayed in this area before. The city is growing and expanding.

in the middle is the famous lipstick or The Gherkin building

On my last day, trying to find my way to the city’s oldest synagogue Bevis Marks Temple, hidden among the skyscrapers, was challenging. I wanted to end my birthday bucket list adventure with a few prayers at the 1701 Sephardic Temple. I am grateful every day for my family and dear friends and another year around the sun. I hope you enjoyed my blogs from this trip to Ireland, Scotland, York, and London.

birthday dinner with nephews, the Freilichs, and Jan – sneaked a photo at the Bevis Marks Temple

November 8, 2019November 10, 2019

Shopping for Nirvana in York

Quick Trip to England 2019

After Dublin, Edinburgh and the Scottish Highlands Will and I decided to stop over in the Medieval town of York en route to London. We boarded the train in Glasgow and spent one night at the historic 1898 Principal Hotel at the train station.

View out my window of the Principal Hotel at the Train Station

York is super cute and full of personality and charm. My favorite area was the famous Shambles Street used as a location in the Harry Potter movies as Driagon Alley.

Roaming the Medieval Town I walk around a corner and see this higglety-pigglety street of leaning buildings and cobblestone streets and I was overwhelmed with adventure. Transported back to a time and place.

antiques and tilted buildings in the Shambles area

York was founded by pre-Roman Britons and originally named “Eborakon” meaning ‘place of yew trees.’ Romans made it their capital in 71AD. Built as a fort between rivers Ouse and Foss. Ouse River is a continuation of River Ure and the longest river in the United Kingdom.

View from the bridge over the Ouse River

The Roman Walls around the city were erected at that time. Walking along the Roman Walls you get a chance to peer over yards and gardens and see vista views of the famous Minster.

York Minster is a Cathedral and Metro-political Church of Saint Peter and one of the largest of its kind in Northern Europe.

Will cap shopping and Anita at a Tudor house

After Romans departed York was abandoned and fell to ruins. In 866 Vikings conquered northern England and York became the capital of a new Viking kingdom.

In the Middle Ages during the 16th and 17th centuries York was the most important town in Northern England. Less important in the 18th century. York was a market town of craftsmen, butchers, brewers, bakers, tailors, shoemakers, coppers, comb-makers, jewelers, and pie makers.

Shambles is a Medieval street of timber-framed shops originally occupied by butchers. Some shops still have outdoor shelves and meat hooks. Now they’re all souvenir shops.

Travel Reflection:

There’s a big wonderful world out there and when you step out of your comfort zone and open yourself up to new experiences, new people and new cultures something magical happens deep inside. A profound shifting of energy that revitalizes and readjusts all that was stuck and stagnant and uninspiring.

November 1, 2019November 1, 2019

Shopping for Nirvana in Scotland

Quick Trip to the Scottish Highlands 2019

In many ways my bucket list birthday trip to Ireland and Scotland was all about experiencing the Scottish Highlands.

Our tour guide, David, had an itinerary and I had no clue what we were going to see or what to expect short of a list of castle hot spots. The minute he met me and my 16 year old nephew Will, David tossed out the plan and improvised. Everything unfolded beautifully. Best guide ever!

Once we left Edinburgh, we immediately hit up our first castle.

LINLITHGOW PALACE is where they shot Wentworth Prison in my favorite show “Outlander.” How did David even know I was an “Outlander” fan? Most of the other castles and palaces we visited were also locations for the TV show so of course I was in heaven (check out my other blog on Outlander locations.) Still in tact was the fountain built by James V in 1538. Fed by an underground water supply, water once fell from the crown. When Bonnie Prince Charlie visited in 1745 the fountain was made to flow with wine. Restored in 2007 to its former glory of fanciful bas-relief statues of mythical beasts and human heads.

Scottish castles and palaces were not the luxury dwellings I had thought or imagined from visiting France, England or even India. These were stone fortresses meant to keep invaders out and provided very little space or comfort for royal families inside.

Storming Doune Castle, I immediately recognized the grounds where they staged Castle Leoch in “Outlander.” In ruins, there wasn’t much to see inside. The exterior courtyard is where all the energy remains. As an intuitive I felt the castle was happy to have “Outlander” film there. The castle was able to revive the spirit of its inhabitants through the action of actors in period costumes camped out for months recreating the world that once was.

Lunch at the Potted Shed Cafe Bistro on the grounds of the Roman Camp Hotel in Callander was one of our favorites. Built in 1625 the Roman Camp was the hotel for the Dukes of Perth. It has 3 ghosts. The cute pink hotel was very classy and everything I dreamed a quaint Scottish Manor House would be. Even the slightly creepy front desk manager who told me he “liked my vibe.” Maybe it was my blue hair!

Scottish Speak:
Dreich is Scottish for rainy weather
Drookit is the word for being soaking wet
Crabbit is ‘bad mood’ and our guide David told us no one is allowed to be Crabbit on this trip! Of course, we never were.

Stopping for the classic photo of breath-taking famous 3 Sisters Mountain range in Glen Coe, it was the same view as the opening credits from “Outlander.” The valley was once used by Clan MacDonald to hide their livestock from raiders during the Jacobite uprising.

We also saw the Harry Potter train passing over the Glenfinnan Viaduct. This train runs an 84 mile round trip that passes Ben Nevis, Scotland’s highest mountain. The Jacobite Steam Train was featured as the fictional Hogwarts Express in the Harry Potter films.

When my trusted travel agent booked us at a creepy Victorian hunting lodge on Lochy Loch, I was shocked at first. Then after a few days the place grew on me and in fact Will and I left with a few tall tales of our own about the place and lots to giggle about. It was our favorite strange experience. Nightly over dinner as we looked out at the dramatic scenery and 10pm sunset the theme from “Outlander” played over the speakers. The famous Scottish folk tune called “Skye Boat Song” transported me to the romance of hunky Jamie Fraser and his true love Claire. The song looped every 30 minutes.

Eilean Donan Castle is quite spectacular. Located on a a small tidal, which is land where 3 sea lochs meet: Loch Duich, Loch Long and Loch Alshin in the Western Highlands. The picturesque castle dominates the island. Founded in the 13th c – a stronghold of Clan Mackenzie and allies Clan MacRae. Partially destroyed during the Jacobite uprising in 1719, a footbridge was added in the early 20th c.

I wanted a fairy experience so we crossed the bridge to have lunch on Isle of Skye located in the Atlantic Ocean. We hadn’t planned on any special isle of Skye outings and now I realize that was a mistake. Next trip I want to hike the Isle of Skye and visit the fairy lake, the fairy waterfalls, fairy everything! The fairy world on Isle of Skye is a magical experience and thankfully we got to dip our toe in the fairy pool.

As we were crossing the the bridge to the isle, my phone alerted me to a MAGIC HOUR. Now this is something I have on my phone in my special calendar but I have never had a phone alert. I believe the fairy energy was alerting me to place my back to the hourly direction and send out my prayers. So, in the parking lot of the Red Skye School House, our driver David and my nephew Will and myself stood with our backs to the Magic Hour direction and tapped into the magic of Isle of Skye. It was truly a spiritual experience. David and Will thought I was slightly nuts. I want to go back!

Of course, no trip to the Scottish Highlands is complete without a visit to the Colloden Battle Field. They have an amazing visitor’s center worth a few hours of attention. Then there’s the quaint town of Pitlochry where it must have been senior hour. As we arrived 2 buses filled with senior citizens mostly in motorized wheel chairs on oxygen tanks roamed the souvenir stores. Urauhart Castle was destroyed but he ruins and movie about its history playing in the gift shop was super interesting. Rainy and misty drive around Loch Ness we could not see the famous sea monster, but Will bought a Nessy stuffed doll for his little cousin (another nephew.) Finally wrapped up the 5 day tour at Scone Palace. The grounds are spectacular and worthy of a few hours dodging peacocks.

A real treat and super special was an overnight stay at the poshy posh Fife Arms in Braemar. Until Swiss art dealers Iwan and Manuela Wirth took it over and made it their love project displaying over 14,000 works of art, the Fife Arms was apparently a dump. Owned by the Duke of Fife (1889-1912), the Inn is now an art masterpiece and everything you imagine a Scottish Highlands experience to be – it is.

One of my favorite shopping for nirvana purchases was the Duke of Fife tartan scarf. Re-created from his original tartan design, a tartan is a woolen cloth woven in plaid associated with a Scottish clan.

The Scottish Highlands is superstition mixed with daily life.